The Language of Lingerie Series: The Process of Cup Construction

The Language of Lingerie Series: The Process of Cup Construction

For the second week (and one more to follow), we'll be giving you another cup full of info on how your bra cups do the really important job of shaping and supporting your breast tissue.  This is some pretty technical information, but it will give you a great understanding of the bras you try on when you come to visit us!

There are two main processes to constructing bra cups:

1. Cut & Sew: the process of cutting multiple panels (usually 2, 3, or 4) to be sewn together to form a bra cup, resulting in a seamed cup which is sewn to the frame of the bra. There are 4 main types of seams, each which produces its own unique shape, and often used in conjunction with one another to create a more rounded shape.
2. Molding: the process of cutting one piece of fabric per cup, heating it, and stretching it over a form. This method results in a seamless, molded cup.  Molded cups can be lace, satin, or contour (a foam-like material). 

You'll recognize molded cups pretty easily, but with so many types of seams that can be used to construct a cup, let's get into the nitty-gritty of those:

Horizontal: mostly seen in full coverage cups, often used in conjunction with a vertical seam to produce a 3-part cup.

Transversal: A curved or arched seam that's almost always horizontal, unless its used as a side seam for the purpose of projecting the breast tissue forward. For the horizontal transversal seam, typically, the curve starts lower at the gore of the bra and arches with the ending point higher at the outer edge of the underwire than it is at the gore.  Typically, the transversal seam is often used in conjunction with a vertical or diagonal seam to create a specific cup shape.

Diagonal: mostly used to construct plunge cups, the diagonal seam helps to shape the cup in a way that brings the lowest (and usually fullest) part of the breast forward. Typically, the diagonal seam is paired with a vertical seam to create a sculpted shape.

Vertical: usually used in conjunction with another seam to further shape the cup.  The vertical seam is also used on its own to create lift and support in demi cups.

For many women, the process by which a cup is made not only has to do with the way a bra shapes & lifts the breast tissue, but it also dictates what types of outfits the bras are worn under.  Keep in mind, there are no rules about what type of bra to wear under what type of clothing.  That's a matter of personal (and often cultural) preference. For a very long time, the American lingerie market was saturated with mostly molded cup bras made from a foam material- the ever marketed "t-shirt bra". With the relatively recent awareness about proper bra fittings also came an awareness about all of the different kinds of bras available to, and appreciated by, women around the world. You've just got to choose the right bras for the right outfits!  Cut and sewn cups often have a great high & sculpted shape that looks fabulous under more tailored clothing while molded cups tend to have a more rounded, natural shape that lends well to thinner knitted fabrics.

Next week, we'll delve into one final,but very important, segment of important information on the cups- the materials they are made from!

Best Rack Around is a lingerie & bra fitting boutique located in Market Station in Leesburg, Virginia in beautiful Loudoun County.  We proudly serve women of all ages, body types, and stages of life.  In addition to the selection of every day bras and special occasion bras, we also have nursing bras, sports bras, mastectomy bras & forms and post-surgical bras.  Call us at (571) 918-4738 to schedule a fitting or visit our website to book an appointment online!